Veal Sausage Pâté, Fol. 34V

wilt du ain basteten machenn mit den kelbern wyrstlin

Food Magazine

Sausages and pâtés were very sustainable meals in the sixteenth century. Sausages were used to process as much as possible of a slaughtered animal; the herbs and spices also increased their shelf life. Pâtés were ideal for making use of leftovers. Nevertheless, Philippine Welser’s recipe calls for fresh sausages in pastry especially made for her. It was thus most probably a speciality.   

34v_kelber_wyrstlin_basteten_5.jpg
FROM THE COOKBOOK OF PHILIPPINE WELSER

»wilt du ain basteten machenn mit den kelbern wyrstlin – mach die wyrstla wie mas sundt macht vnd  bratzs ain wenig nyt gar ab vnd mach ein rundenn hafenn vnnd legs dar ein wilt du gerenn so mach kain letzlin dar vm vnd brats nit vor nu wan dus hin neyn hast gelegtt so dau wein ber vnnd allerlay gwyrtz dar ein vnnd ain zucker machs mit ainer deckenn zu vnd las bachenn lanng sam magst vnnd wans schyr gebachen ist so geus ain halb achtlin malfasyer oder ranfel dar ein mach oben ein lechlin am ortt dar ein vnd geus durch ain drachterlin bys hin neyn kumptt nim zu disem kain malfasyer nur ain suben brye vnd ain agerest«

TransCript

(If you want to make a veal sausage pâté – make the sausages as you would usually prepare them and fry them a little; use a large round pot (lined with dough), put them (the sausages) inside; if you prefer, you do not need to add a rim or fry the sausages before you put them inside. Then add raisins and all sorts of spices and sugar, cover the pot with pie crust, and let them (the pâtés) bake slowly. When they are almost ready, use a funnel to pour half of an eighth of Malvasia or Reinval (white wine varieties) into a hole you made before in the pie crust. You may also use broth or vinegar instead of wine.)  

When the very first sausage as we know it today was made cannot be determined anymore.

We do know, however, that Homer described a sort of blood sausage served as a reward to victorious warriors in his Odyssey (around the turn from the eighth to the seventh century BCE). There is also a recipe for sausages made from lamb and goat from China of the sixth century BCE. In the German-speaking region, the first evidence of sausages dates back to the Middle Ages. More than 1,500 types of different sausages were made and sold until the sixteenth century; unofficially, every good housewife most probably had her own, very special recipe for sausages.

When we followed Philippine Welser’s recipe, we took the easy way out and (as usual) bought the fresh veal sausages from our butcher…  

FOR OUR VEAL SAUSAGE PÂTÉ WE USED THE FOLLOWING (INGREDIENTS):

Pie crust:

  • 200g flour
  • 1 egg
  • Some butter
  • Salt
  • Water

Stuffing:

  • 3 pairs of veal sausages
  • Raisins
  • Cinnamon
  • Clove
  • Salt
  • Pepper
  • Sugar
  • 1/8 Grünen Veltliner

Katharina Seidl

Katharina Seidl is a curator at Ambras Castle and Head of Art Education.